FAQ

Must Be 18 years + to purchase.

New Items!

Thanks for visiting our site!  We will be posting new items for sale on our site every month.  Get on the newsletter, and get notified right away when new work is available for sale.

Shipping Policy

We ship USPS Priority Mail.  Please contact us for international shipping orders.

Pricing

Every knife is different and priced according to its size, technical design and material.

Price Range
Kitchen $200-$800
Fixed Blade EDC $200-$500
Large Fixed Blades $500-$1000
Bowie Knives 1000+
Swords 2000+
Frame Lock $600-$800
Friction Folders $200-$1000
*Additional cost applied for some specialty and limited edition materials.

Knife Care

My knives are made to last, bottom line. I use the same materials, and some new ones, that have been used to make knives for thousands of years. Steel and wood are about as simple as you can get, and will out live you if properly cared for. With that being said, no, my knives are not invincible, even the most well made knife would be worthless if it was left to corrode. I make very nice knives, they DO NOT belong in a dishwasher, at the bottom of a sink, left in a tree over the winter, or bouncing off your motorcycle down the highway.

Rule number 1

Never ride it hard and put it away wet. Steel rusts, even stainless steel. It is very important to dry your knife when you are done using it, and store it properly. Some chefs will keep a towel near by and wipe the blade after every few cuts. I recommend wiping the knife off very well, then drying it off again before you put it away. One wipe will just drag the moisture across the blade and can leave spots, pits or even rust if left to dry on the blade. I personally try to push my knives when I use them, if i can’t break it, you wont either. If you are using a pocket knife a few wipes on you pants will do the trick. If you get it really gunked up say with sap, just clean it as soon as you have a chance, and never keep it stored in a sheath for long periods.

Leather is skin, skin absorbs moisture, even humidity in the air can collect inside a sheath after a period of time. Leather also contains acids from the tanning process, these can transfer to the steel if it gets wet and leave marks on the blade. When storing your blade for longer periods, I suggest using beeswax to protect the steel from corrosion, oil collects dirt and can soften leather sheaths.

Knives that will see contact with acid, like a kitchen knife, will form a patina quickly. This interaction with steel forms a protective coating in an organic pattern that will be unique and show the footsteps of your knifes life. Patinas can be removed with polishing if undesired or applied by cutting acid foods like onions and pineapple. A gentle vinegar bath will also jump start this process, but you can make unsightly marks if you are not careful.  Most of my knives have been treated with an acid bath before shipping.

Rule Number 2 – If something happens, DO NOT try to fix it. I pride myself on making products with the utmost care and attention to quality and detail. However in this world we have to live with the fact that “shit happens”. If for some reason, your knife becomes damaged, please contact me. This rule applies double for sharpening. Most at home sharpening tools will ruin the ultra thin delicate edge on your knife. Every time you remove material you are making the edge inevitably larger . Every time you sharpen it, you are making the tip wider and wider because you are removing material. Honing your knife with a kitchen steel or strop will help align your edge and maintain the original, sharpest point.

grinding

Photo from Jay Fishers awesome custom knife website.

To maintain your handle use beeswax after heavy washings. Tung oil provides a great finish, you can reapply it as you like with ease. Rub the oil in with a cloth until tacky and buff with steel wool.